MEDIA

The Oregonian
November 26, 2004

DINING PLATTER THE FOIE GRAS FOLLIES CONTINUE
By GRANT BUTLER - The Oregonian

The foie gras activists may have won a couple of battles by getting three prominent Portland restaurants to dump the engorged-duck liver from their menu. But it's a war that's anything but over, if Pascal Sauton has anything to say about it.

Late last week, Sauton, chef at Carafe (200 S.W. Market St.; 503-248-0004),
threw out a culinary call-to-arms to about 50 top chefs around town, encouraging them to put foie gras on their menus.

"Are we going to sit still like sitting ducks?" Sauton said in the e-mail. "Everyone has a right to an opinion, but this is going too far."

Sauton is fuming about recent actions by animal-rights protesters that have pushed foie gras out of the kitchens at The Heathman Restaurant, Higgins and Hurley's. The protesters take issue with the force-feeding of ducks to enlarge their livers to produce the fatty delicacy, and say that restaurants that serve it should pay the price. At Hurley's protesters spent several weekends on the sidewalks outside the restaurant, confronting customers; chef Tom Hurley says he's lost thousands of dollars in business.

That ticks off Sauton, who thinks their efforts could be spent on more important issues than the well-being of ducks.

"Militants are forcing restaurants to remove foie gras from their menus and meanwhile, thousands of children go hungry in our state. . . . Where are our priorities? A bunch of ducks? Are you kidding me? I wish these extremists would spend some time volunteering at the Oregon Food Bank or with Metropolitan Family Services, or the Make-A-Wish Foundation and realize what really matters.

"We need to unite, and we need to do so now. Why give up? Why give these people a glimpse of victory? Next thing we know, our trade will be in danger and we'll be selling legumes and tofu.

"I have a proposition: Let's all put foie gras on our menu. . . . If we all get together and fight, we can win. Do you want to follow California? We need to fight for what we believe in."

And Sauton has followed through on his promise, adding a special appetizer of foie gras and Oregon truffle terrine, served with apples and grilled walnut bread. It's available through the holidays.